Dark tea, including Pu-erh ripe tea, Anhua dark tea, Liubao tea, and Jingyang Fuzhuan tea, is the most unique among China's six major tea categories. It's like the "aged wine" or "blue cheese" of the tea world; those who love it cherish it, while those unaccustomed to it avoid it.
We can analyze this in depth from two perspectives: "What makes it taste good?" and "Why do some people dislike it?"
I. What makes dark tea taste so good?
The beauty of dark tea lies not in its freshness, but in the **"depth of time."**
Mellow and smooth, with a viscous texture:
Through sufficient fermentation (pile fermentation), the polyphenols in dark tea undergo profound transformations. Good dark tea is very "smooth" on the palate, without the astringency of green tea or the constricting feeling of black tea. It's like a bowl of warm rice soup or rich broth, with a distinct "thickness" and "smoothness."
"Cross-category" and profound aroma:
The aroma of dark tea is highly distinctive and very rich. Common aromas include:
Aged aroma: Like the smell of opening the door of an old wooden house.
Medicinal/woody aroma: Like an ancient medicine cabinet or agarwood.
Fungal aroma: The unique fragrance of dried fruit brought by the "golden flowers" (Eurotium cristatum) in Fuzhuan tea.
Date/longan aroma: A sweet and mellow aroma produced after long-term storage.
High brewing endurance and "body feel":
Dark tea is very durable and retains its flavor even after more than ten infusions. More importantly, dark tea is mild in nature and has a "warming" effect on the stomach. Many people feel particularly comfortable after drinking dark tea after a meal; the feeling of aiding digestion and relieving greasiness is unparalleled by other types of tea.
The surprise of the aftertaste:
The sweetness of dark tea is not a straightforward sugary sweetness, but a "lingering sweetness" that slowly emerges from the back of the throat after swallowing. This sweetness is very long-lasting and profound.
II. Why do many people dislike dark tea? The entry barrier for dark tea is indeed higher than that of green tea and oolong tea, mainly due to the following reasons:
"First impression" aesthetic habits:
Most Chinese people are deeply influenced by the aesthetics of green tea, accustomed to its "fragrant, refreshing, and tender green" characteristics. Black tea, however, has a dark red (even soy sauce-like) color and a deep, rich aroma. This huge visual and olfactory contrast can make beginners instinctively feel that it is "not fresh" or "too strong."
Misleading "fermentation odor":
Newly processed dark tea (especially ripe Pu-erh) has a "fermentation odor," a smell similar to earthy or dampness. If the processing is not done properly or the tea is not aged enough, this smell will be very noticeable. For beginners, this smells and tastes very much like "mold."
Uneven quality, even with "storage odor":
Dark tea requires proper storage. If the storage environment is poor (too humid or poorly ventilated), the tea will absorb environmental odors, producing a "moldy" or "storage odor." Many beginners may first try cheap, low-quality, or improperly stored dark tea, and one bad experience is enough to make them give up on dark tea altogether.
Lack of "high-pitched" aroma:
If you expect a strong floral or fruity aroma like jasmine tea or Phoenix Dancong Oolong, dark tea will disappoint you. The aroma of dark tea is subtle and deep, requiring careful and patient appreciation. This can seem "dull" to taste buds accustomed to a fast pace and seeking immediate stimulation.
Poor control of concentration:
Beginners often have difficulty controlling the amount of tea leaves and brewing time. Dark tea has a dark color, and if brewed too strongly, the tea liquor becomes pitch black, and the taste becomes very overwhelming, even with a slightly bitter and salty taste.
Summary and suggestions:
If you want to try dark tea, it is recommended to:
Start with "aged" tea: Dark tea that has been aged for 3-5 years will have most of the fermentation odor dissipated, and the aroma will be purer.
Try "Golden Flower" Fu Zhuan tea: The fungal aroma of Fu Zhuan tea is usually sweeter and more acceptable to beginners. Note on rinsing the tea: Dark tea is a post-fermented tea, so the first (or even the first two) infusions must be used to "awaken/rinse" the tea leaves and then discarded. This removes surface dust and impurities, resulting in a clearer tea liquor.
Dark tea is an art of **"slowness."** When you're tired of the vibrant, fragrant teas and seek inner peace and digestive comfort, the true charm of dark tea will reveal itself.
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