A Chronicle Of Ripe Pu'er Tea Featuring Prominent Figures, Historical events, And Renowned Tea Factories(1)

Pu-erh ripe tea has only existed for about 40 years since its inception. I've always wanted to write an article about its origins, but unfortunately, I lack sufficient research materials. Fortunately, I recently came across the article "Lu Zhuxun: The 'Godfather of Ripe Tea' Who Never Produced a Single Cake," which mentioned Mr. Yang Kai's research on the history of pu'er ripe tea, and I was deeply inspired. After organizing Mr. Yang Kai's articles and books on the historical research of pu'er ripe tea, I clearly saw the trajectory of ripe Pu-erh from its inception to the present day, the important turning points, and the factories, people, and events that have left their mark on the chronology of Pu-erh ripe tea: Lu Zhuxun, a representative of Pu-erh ripe tea; the Menghai Tea Factory that produced the legendary 7452 and 7572; how Macau, Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Yunnan, and other places promoted the transformation from raw Pu-erh to ripe pu'er tea… I will use three blog posts to clearly explain the origins of Pu-erh ripe tea, its development history, important turning points, and processing techniques—in other words, this is a chronology of Pu-erh ripe tea, vibrant with figures, historical events, and famous tea factories.

Lu Zhuxun

The Budding Stage: The Precursor of Ripe Pu-erh Tea – Red-Soup Raw Pu-erh

The concept of ripe Pu-erh tea was actually only truly established around 1975. Before that, Pu-erh tea, by today's standards, was all raw Pu-erh tea. Records of Yunnan compressed tea's materials, production, and packaging in works completed before the founding of the People's Republic of China all similarly mention that the raw Pu-erh tea of ​​that time had a "red soup color." This red-soup Pu-erh was the precursor to ripe Pu-erh tea.

Red-soup Pu-erh

The reasons for the red-soup Pu-erh can be summarized in three points:

1. Due to the Processing Technology

Referring to descriptions of Pu-erh tea production processes at that time, it can be found that the production process of Pu-erh tea then was the same as that of raw Pu-erh tea today. Sun-drying was used during drying, and coupled with the relatively rudimentary production conditions at the time, the finished tea inevitably underwent "micro-fermentation," resulting in a "pale red" soup color. Later, the "tea-building" process, where the tea was allowed to dry naturally after being moistened with water, further intensified the "fermentation" of the tea leaves.

Local people and tea farmers pick tea leaves, stir-fry them in a wok to wilt, then repeatedly knead them on bamboo mats before sun-drying or air-drying them—this is the initial processing of tea. It is either sold in small quantities at the market or packed into bamboo baskets according to quality.

After placing the tea leaves in the baskets, a little moisture is sprinkled on them, and the baskets are surrounded by large bamboo shoots (commonly known as bamboo shoot leaves). Then, while adding tea, it is pressed tightly with fists or sticks, a process called "building the tea." The tea is then stored separately to dry naturally.

2. Poor Transportation Conditions

The journey from Yunnan to Guangzhou and Hong Kong is long. Tea can only be transported by human porters and pack animals, and it often takes a year to reach Hong Kong. During this long transport period, the tea is exposed to wind and rain, resulting in a darker tea liquor color by the time it arrives.

3. Aging Required Before Sale

After arriving in Hong Kong, Pu'er tea is not consumed immediately. To achieve a smoother and more pleasant taste, it is often aged for a period of time before being sold.

This custom can also be traced in an interview with Hong Kong tea connoisseur Lu Zhuxun, who said, "When my great-grandfather was in the Pu'er tea business, the freshly made Pu'er tea had a rather dark color, but it was only sold after being aged for six or seven years until the flavor became purer."

Thus, we can see that Pu'er tea consumed in Guangzhou and Hong Kong before the founding of the People's Republic of China, due to processing techniques, production and transportation conditions, and the effects of later storage, exhibited slight fermentation. However, the "red liquor" of Pu'er tea was not intentionally caused, but rather had many objective reasons.

Emergence Period: Habits Lead to Demand—The Beginning of Pu'er Tea Reform 

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, private tea shops and tea factories gradually began to be jointly owned by the public and private sectors, and tea began to be centrally purchased and sold. In 1949, China Tea was established, and tea-making techniques and production scale developed rapidly. Transportation conditions also improved significantly, leading to changes in the quality of Pu'er tea supplied to Hong Kong.

In 1950, Yuan Shoushan, who ran the Tongxinghao Tea Shop in Yunnan, came to Macau. Sitting on a wooden chair in the Yingji Tea Shop, he remarked, "Hong Kong customers, accustomed to the red-broth Pu'er tea (raw tea), simply cannot stomach the under-fermented flavor of the new tea. This has led to a shortage of aged tea cakes on the market." This information corroborates the situation at the time. It was also discovered that the Hong Kong market, accustomed to "traditional tastes," had a gap in demand for highly aged Pu'er tea. To allow newly supplied Pu'er tea to naturally adapt to the tastes preferred by Hong Kong people, time was the only option. To quickly meet market demand, various regions embarked on a path of reforming Pu'er tea processing techniques.

Development Period: A Hundred Schools of Thought Contend, Reforms in Hong Kong, Guangzhou, and Kunming

Hong Kong: Lu Zhuxun's Red-Broth Raw Pu'er and His Fuhuahao Tea Shop

Fuhuahao Tea Shop in Hong Kong

Ying Kee Tea Shop in Macau

Lu Zhuxun, a prominent figure in Hong Kong's tea industry and a representative of the development of ripe Pu'er tea in Hong Kong, was born in Guangdong in 1927 and his life was inextricably linked to tea. At the age of 11, he became an apprentice at the renowned Ying Kee Tea Shop in Macau.

After the quality of the Pu-erh tea supplied to Hong Kong changed, Lu Zhuxun keenly sensed a business opportunity. Drawing on his family's experience in the Pu-erh tea business and his previous experience making black tea, Lu began developing a Pu-erh tea (red-broth raw Pu-erh tea) that would be popular in the Hong Kong market. A month later, his research was successful.

In the late 19th century, Macau's leading position in the tea entrepot trade was gradually replaced by Hong Kong. In 1954, Master Lu left Macau with his skills and settled in Hong Kong, establishing his own brand, "Fuhua Hao Songpinmai".

Fuhua Membership Card

To Be Continued

The History And Evolution Of Liubao Tea And Its Production Techniques(2）

At that time, the fermentation process reform experiment was led by the Guangdong Provincial Tea Import and Export Company, while the research on the pile fermentation of Liubao tea fell to the Wuzhou branch of the China Tea Guangxi Provincial Branch (now Wuzhou China Tea).

A book published in 1959 introducing the cold-water pile fermentation process.

At that time, the technical personnel in Wuzhou explored and recorded the process and results of dividing the tea leaves into different grades and adding different proportions of water.  The advantages and disadvantages of this process were also listed. The document explicitly states, "Currently, we have implemented this method in our large-scale production, and the finished products supplied to the Guangdong Tea Export Company have received positive feedback." This confirms that the cold-water pile fermentation process for Liubao tea by the Wuzhou branch of the China Tea Guangxi Provincial Branch (now Wuzhou China Tea) had been applied to mass production at least as early as 1958.

In the fermentation workshop of Wuzhou Zhongcha, the cold water pile fermentation tanks that had been in use for decades have now been replaced with clean and hygienic stainless steel tanks.

Most importantly, the improved quality and taste of Liubao tea were recognized by merchants. The special export mission of the Wuzhou Tea Import and Export Company (now Wuzhou China Tea) at that time meant that, until the abolition of the foreign trade tea export license management in 2005, the Liubao tea flavor recognized in Southeast Asia and Hong Kong and Macau was based on Liubao tea produced using the cold-water pile fermentation method.

It is also worth mentioning that in early 1973, the Yunnan Provincial Tea Import and Export Company learned at the Canton Fair that Hong Kong customers needed fermented red-liquor Pu'er tea, and since this type of tea was produced in Guangdong, they decided to learn the process.  Around 1975, Yunnan's fermentation process underwent a significant innovation, developing the cold-water pile fermentation process, which led to the creation of ripe Pu'er tea.

It can be said that, whether for Liubao tea or Pu'er tea, the cold-water pile fermentation process was researched and invented under the leadership and organization of the China Tea Company at that time. They were the leaders and pioneers of modern ripe tea processing technology.

Looking back, how important is the pile fermentation process to Liubao tea and ripe Pu'er tea? Numerous papers now show that its principle is to promote the transformation of internal substances through hydrothermal action, enzymatic action, and microbial action, reducing bitterness and astringency, deepening the color of the tea liquor, making the taste mellower, and changing the color of the tea leaves to reddish-brown or dark brown, thus optimizing the quality of the tea. 

The Last Secret of Liubao Tea – Cellar Aging

Liubao tea is renowned for its "red, rich, aged, and mellow" characteristics. When brewed, the tea liquor is bright red, the taste is mellow and refreshing, and the aroma is pure. A ​​crucial process in its production is cellar aging. According to records, in ancient times, people in Liubao Township (now Liubao Town) stored tea leaves in mud-brick houses with relatively constant temperatures. Through practice, they discovered that the storage of Liubao tea played a very important role in improving its quality. This was the early form of the cellar aging process for Liubao tea. Furthermore, the book "Tea Manufacturing," published by the Agricultural Publishing House in 1961, explicitly states that Liubao tea "is best when aged, and the older, the better." In short, under certain storage conditions, the post-fermentation of Liubao tea is accelerated due to the participation of microorganisms, making the tea redder, richer, and mellower.

In the current geographical indication standards for Liubao tea, the aging process is described as follows: The tea leaves are placed in a clean, cool, well-ventilated environment free of peculiar odors. After the tea temperature drops to room temperature and the moisture content drops below 18%, it is moved to a clean environment with a relative humidity of 75% to 90%, a temperature of 23℃ to 28℃, and no peculiar odors, or to a cave with similar conditions for aging. Then, it is moved to a clean, cool, dry warehouse free of peculiar odors for further aging. The aging time is no less than 180 days. Therefore, the interpretation of the geographical indication can be that the aging process requires specific storage environments, storage methods, and climatic conditions, but the location is not unique. It can be a tea cellar, a brick and wood warehouse, or a purely dry warehouse, etc. However, different cellar aging environments create different flavors. To obtain the unique and high-quality flavor of Liubao tea, there has always been a practice of "multiple warehouses, multiple storages" and repeated transfers for aging.

The brick and wood structure of Wuzhou Zhongcha's natural dry storage has been in use since the 1960s, with ventilation and moisture protection (glass tiles are used for light transmission).

Going back to the 1950s and 1960s, during the period when modern Liubao tea processing techniques were taking shape, the Wuzhou branch of the China Tea Guangxi Provincial Company (now Wuzhou Zhongcha) further applied the cellar aging process in practice. Technicians discovered that the air-raid shelters left over from the war were excellent places for cellar aging.

In fact, many tea processing techniques originate from accidental discoveries. For example, it is said that the semi-fermentation process of Oolong tea originated from a unique taste obtained through a production error. Therefore, whether a new process can withstand the test of time and taste is crucial.

As is well known, cellar aging is particularly common in the fermentation of alcoholic beverages. Its function is to accelerate the esterification reaction, thereby speeding up the maturation of the alcohol. Moreover, frequently used cellars can form a relatively stable microbial community, which is extremely important for the quality of fermentation. Liu Bao tea that has undergone cellar aging has improved in terms of its bitter and astringent taste, possessing a more mellow flavor.

Exterior view of the natural dry storage structure of Wuzhou Zhongcha brick and wood

However, controlling the quality of tea during the aging process is not something that can be explained solely by textbook knowledge. According to Manager Xie of the Wuzhou China Tea Product Development Department, in addition to data control, the aging process requires experienced masters to conduct regular sensory evaluations.  Based on the style of different products, they decide whether to move the tea to a different storage location and control the duration of aging.

Furthermore, Manager Xie also said that the "no less than 180 days" mentioned in the geographical indication is actually a very basic standard. Some Liubao teas that have been aged well for seven or ten years will offer a special aroma and taste, which is the unique charm brought about by the aging and transformation of Liubao tea.

The End

The History And Evolution Of Liubao Tea And Its Production Techniques(1）

Tracing history is a delightful adventure. In the tea industry, exploring the historical process of a particular type of tea is like journeying to a distant plateau, searching for the source of the mighty Yangtze River; at some point, you'll be struck by a scene you never imagined.

In early April, we traveled to Wuzhou, Guangxi, where we wanted to learn about the understated yet famous Liubao tea. Previously, Liubao tea was primarily exported to overseas Chinese communities, enjoying a high reputation in Southeast Asia, but most tea enthusiasts in China were unfamiliar with it. Its obscurity, however, gives it a unique, profound, and enduring charm. For example, the cold-water fermentation process of Liubao tea was developed in 1958, and Wuzhou Zhongcha Tea Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Wuzhou Zhongcha) has inherited decades of expertise in Liubao tea's cellar aging process, a technique unparalleled in the tea industry.

History is always full of coincidences and drama, and the development of Liubao tea's processing is no exception.

Liubao tea, named after the township (now a town).

Historical Famous Tea and the Disruption of its Craftsmanship

Tracing the history of Liubao tea's processing, we start from its origins. First, it is a historically famous tea. During the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, Cangwu Liubao tea was listed among the twenty-four famous teas due to its betel nut aroma. Later, it became a symbol of homesickness for Chinese laborers working in Southeast Asia and a life-saving tea for those working hard in humid and hot regions, becoming popular in Southeast Asia for over a hundred years—this was its most glorious period.

The Hekou Street Wharf in Liubao Town, 

one of the starting points of the ancient tea boat route.

Unfortunately, like many teas, its processing techniques were disrupted due to historical reasons.

During the Anti-Japanese War, both the supply and demand sides of Liubao tea suffered devastating blows. The waterway routes essential for Liubao tea exports were blockaded by the Japanese army, and the entire Southeast Asian region was ravaged by war, resulting in a complete loss of market. At that time, Liubao tea production almost ceased. It can be said that since the Qing Dynasty, the specific details of Liubao tea's processing and the exact taste of its famous betel nut aroma have been almost completely lost. The only sources of reference are some historical documents and people's taste memories. In 1930, the Guangxi University Weekly published the following text: "After picking the tea leaves, place them in boiling water until they become soft, about 5 minutes. Then remove them and place them in a basket, pressing them with your feet until the leaves curl up. Then dry them over a fire. After drying, steam them until soft, then store them in a basket for sale." This is the earliest record of the production process of Liubao tea. In this brief description, we can see that the blanching process using boiling water is different from modern techniques. The phrase "stored for sale" essentially refers to the processes of cooling after steaming, natural drying, and aging (fermentation), which are similar to modern techniques.

In another historical document, "Tea Picking and Processing Methods (Liubao Tea)" (1957) describes: "The processing process of Liubao tea is: blanching (stir-frying in a pot) → rolling → piling for fermentation → re-rolling → drying." This is the first record in the history of Liubao tea production that explicitly states that "piling" is for "fermentation." Clearly, from the changes in the blanching method and the evolution of the fermentation concept from empirical practice to a defined process, we can perceive the evolution and maturation of Liubao tea processing techniques.

In the traditional processing of Liubao tea, a wooden rolling machine is
used to roll the tea leaves after they have been killed from green.

This might be a general picture before the disruption of Liubao tea processing techniques. In today's Liubao tea market, one branch has inherited and developed this process, which is known in the market as "farmer's tea" or "traditional process." However, a recent article explained that due to several disruptions in this traditional process (including one after the founding of PRC), the production standards of farmer's tea merchants in Wuzhou are not uniform, and the quality varies greatly. Some even simply borrow the classification method of Pu-erh raw tea, calling it Liubao raw tea, resulting in a rather chaotic situation.

The Crisis of Tea Merchant Processing Methods

The trajectory of historical development always follows this pattern: necessity is the mother of invention. If the traditional process mentioned above strives to respect ancient traditions, then the tea merchant processing method, the source of the current Wuzhou large-scale tea factory process, is a unique fruit that has blossomed in the development of Liubao tea techniques.

Regarding the origin of this lineage and its sensory characteristics, a historical document provides us with clear information. The book "Chinese Tea Processing Techniques" records: "Before 1958, the Wuzhou branch of the Guangxi Provincial Tea Company of China (now Wuzhou China Tea) adopted the Liubao tea processing method of Wuzhou tea merchants, first steaming and then piling. The piling process generally lasted 18-24 hours, with the core temperature reaching 70-80℃. The appearance and color changed quickly, and the tea liquor deepened in color, but the tea leaves hardened.  After processing, the finished product could not meet the quality requirements for aging after long-term storage, and the foreign market reacted strongly to this."

At the entrance to the highway in Liubao Town, the route of 

the ancient tea boat route can be seen on a giant rock.

There are two key points here: "adopting the Liubao tea processing method of Wuzhou tea merchants" and "the foreign market reacted strongly to this."

Let's discuss the latter first. Many people don't know that in that historical period, for the people at that time, this "strong reaction" was a very important matter, both economically and psychologically. The People's Republic of China had only recently been established, resources were scarce, and everything needed rebuilding. Exports were extremely important. The aforementioned "Tea Picking and Processing Methods (Liubao Tea)" (1957) also records the propaganda at the time emphasizing the special significance of expanding tea exports: "Exporting one ton of tea can be exchanged for 10-12 tons of steel or 20 tons of gasoline, and 180 piculs of tea can be exchanged for a new tractor..." Therefore, the strong reaction from the foreign market to the quality of the tea would have caused many people sleepless nights.

Now let's talk about "adopting the Liubao tea processing method of Wuzhou tea merchants." According to Manager Xie of the product development department of Wuzhou China Tea, during the era of the ancient tea trade route, there were many tea merchants. However, these merchants did not directly export the raw tea; they would generally process it further according to their own requirements, and these processes might include blending and piling. It can be said that the Liubao tea exported to Southeast Asia in the past was not simply raw tea produced by farmers. Regarding how Liubao tea was processed after reaching the hands of the Guangzhou Thirteen Factories tea merchants via the tea waterway during the Qing Dynasty, there is currently a lack of reliable historical records, which is a major regret in Liubao tea research.

Today, the sculptures at Hekou Wharf in Liubao Town depict 

the scene of tea merchants collecting tea at that time.

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, in 1954, the state strengthened centralized control over tea, prohibiting private merchants from entering the production areas to purchase tea, and all tea was managed by the China Tea Company. Although the tea merchants' methods were still being used at the time, problems arose, as the quality and taste of the tea could not be consistently maintained. There are two reasons for this. First, according to Manager Xie of Wuzhou Zhongcha, there were many tea merchants in the past, and each had different techniques, mostly related to the experience of the tea masters.  The so-called "continuation" of these methods therefore varied greatly.

Another reason is that Liubao tea was packaged in bamboo baskets and mostly transported by water. Due to poor transportation conditions, various human and non-human factors could cause the tea to undergo a slight fermentation process. However, with the expansion of tea production and the improvement of transportation conditions, the quality of exported tea changed, which actually aligns with the laws of tea development. In different eras, with changes in transportation environments and drinking preferences, tea processing techniques have also changed, either actively or passively, and Liubao tea, by chance, ushered in a new era.

Inside the natural brick and wood warehouse of Wuzhou Zhongcha, Liubao tea is packaged in bamboo baskets, a method unique to Liubao tea.

A New Dawn: Cold Water Fermentation

Just when all seemed lost, a new path emerged.  If it weren't for the feedback from foreign customers, the milestone cold water fermentation process for Liubao tea might have been developed several years later.

As mentioned earlier, in the mid-1950s, it was reported that the tea soup of Liubao tea was not red enough or bright enough, failing to meet export requirements. In fact, this problem wasn't unique to Liubao tea; Pu'er tea also experienced similar issues at that time. The previous article, "The Story of Ripe Pu'er: The Most Detailed Chronology of the Origin of Ripe Pu'er Tea," states that in 1950, some people reported that "customers in Hong Kong who were used to drinking red-soup Pu'er tea (raw tea) simply couldn't get used to it." Both of these feedbacks pointed to insufficient fermentation.

Pu'er tea enthusiasts are quite familiar with this period of Pu'er tea history. In 1959, the Guangdong Tea Import and Export Company began experimental research on accelerating the post-fermentation of Pu'er tea, and developed its own new Pu'er tea fermentation process, which was then called "Guangdong Pu'er tea." However, many people don't know that Liubao tea also underwent a modern technological innovation during this period. The earliest written record of the research and application of the cold-water fermentation technique can be found in "Tea Refining Technology and Machinery" (Collection of Tea Technology Innovation Materials, Volume 3), published by Light Industry Press in 1959.  An article in the book, titled "Experience of Wuzhou Tea Factory (then affiliated with the Wuzhou Branch of the Guangxi Provincial Branch of China Tea Company) in Adopting Cold Fermentation for Liubao Tea," details the reasons for the development of the cold-water fermentation process and its successful application.

To Be Continued