Regarding The Packaging Cover Art For Our Two Newly Launched High-end 100G Pu'er Tea Cakes

The painting "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing" currently
housed in the Liaoning Provincial Museum in China.

Our two newly launched high-end Puerh 100G Cakes

The cover art for our two newly launched high-end Pu-erh tea cakes features a portion of "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing," one of the representative works of Zhang Xuan, a renowned female painter from the Tang Dynasty of China. "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing" depicts Lady Guoguo, the sister of Yang Guifei (the beloved concubine of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty), and her entourage of eight riders and nine people enjoying a spring outing. The figures in the painting have a relaxed demeanor and graceful movements, and their clothing is light and vibrant. Lady Guoguo, riding a dappled horse, appears elegant and dignified, with a full and radiant face. The other attendants are shown holding the reins, raising their whips, or gazing ahead, reflecting the confident and optimistic spirit of the prosperous Tang Dynasty. This work is a long scroll painting on silk. In terms of composition, it employs a balanced arrangement, with the figures and horses arranged in a well-proportioned and rhythmic manner; the lines are delicate yet strong, flowing and natural; the colors are predominantly warm, elegant, and opulent without being vulgar; and in terms of technique, the entire painting is highly realistic, with a lively and bright style and a decorative quality. "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing" reflects the flourishing appearance of the Tang Dynasty and also indirectly reflects the extravagant and luxurious lifestyle of the court nobility at that time.

The Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) is widely regarded as the most powerful, open, and prosperous empire in the world at that time. It was a center of international exchange, and its political system, economic strength, and cultural influence radiated throughout East Asia, inspiring countries such as Japan and Silla to adopt its model. It attracted merchants, monks, and scholars from around the globe, and was a true golden age in Chinese history. Its openness, strength, and prosperity had a profound impact on world civilization, leaving behind the glorious imprint of the "Splendid Tang Dynasty."

The gilded tea set from the Tang dynasty imperial court, discovered in 1987 in the underground palace of Famen Temple in Shaanxi province, is now housed in the Famen Temple Museum in Shaanxi, China.

The Tang Dynasty was a crucial period for the rise and flourishing of Chinese tea culture. Tea transitioned from medicinal use to daily consumption, integrating into court life, literati culture, religious practices, and folk customs. Lu Yu's "The Classic of Tea" laid the foundation for the tea ceremony, and the method of drinking tea evolved from the early "tea soup" to "brewed tea," giving rise to the tribute tea system and the exquisite court tea culture with its fine tea sets, making tea a "national drink" and spreading it to the world.

The prevalence of tea drinking in China began in the Tang Dynasty. In the early Tang Dynasty, although some people in the north drank tea, the custom of tea drinking was mainly confined to the southeastern and southwestern regions.  Hence the saying, "Southerners are fond of drinking tea, while northerners initially did not drink much." In the early 8th century, Emperor Suzong of Tang ordered a ban on alcohol, and people began to substitute tea for wine, leading to the spread of tea drinking in the north. After the Kaiyuan era, tea drinking became widespread. Feng Yan's *Fengshi Wenjian Ji* (Records of Things Heard and Seen by Feng) from the Tang Dynasty vividly describes how the custom of tea drinking spread through imitation, eventually becoming a widespread custom. At that time, from Shandong Province to Henan Province and then to Shaanxi Province, many towns had tea shops, and tea was readily available everywhere. Most of the tea produced in the south was transported to the north along the Grand Canal. Tea consumption spread from the south to the central plains, and then from the central plains to the regions beyond the Great Wall.

The flourishing of tea drinking in the Tang Dynasty was closely related to tea production and the level of social civilization. The main tea-producing areas in the Tang Dynasty spanned 43 prefectures and counties across eight major tea-producing regions: Shannan, Huainan, Zhejiang West, Zhejiang East, Jiannan, Qianzhong, Jiangnan, and Lingnan, essentially forming the framework of modern tea-producing areas. "Many people in Jiangnan made their living by growing tea," and the industry gradually developed towards specialization and commercialization.

The flourishing of tea culture and the improvement of tea-drinking taste in the Tang Dynasty also benefited from the efforts of people like Lu Yu. The publication of Lu Yu's *The Classic of Tea* transformed the ordinary act of tea drinking into a cultural phenomenon full of charm and poetry, giving tea ceremony the aesthetic meaning of calming the mind and refreshing the spirit. As Mei Yaochen of the Song Dynasty said, "Since Lu Yu was born into the world, people have been learning from him about spring tea."

At the same time, "tea god worship" also became part of tea customs. From the mid-Tang Dynasty onwards, Lu Yu was revered as the "Tea God," and he was worshipped in tea workshops, tea warehouses, tea shops, tea houses, and various tea-producing areas, a tradition that has continued for a thousand years. In some places, Lu Tong and Pei Wen were also worshipped as accompanying deities. Many couplets in tea shops and teahouses feature Lu Yu, such as "Lu Yu compiled the classic, Lu Tong quenched his thirst; Wuyi tea was selected, and Gu Zhu tea shared its fragrance," and "The lively fire brews the spring water, increasing the value of Lu Yu's and Lu Tong's works; the spring breeze sips the tea, appreciating the quality of the tea leaves."

The Tang Dynasty tea sets unearthed from Famen Temple are of extremely high research value.  They not only showcase the exquisite craftsmanship of Tang Dynasty court tea ware (gold, silver, and glass artifacts), with their precious materials and elegant forms, but also serve as tangible evidence of Tang Dynasty court tea culture, the integration of Buddhist and Taoist cultures, and East-West exchange. Their decorative patterns (such as flying horses and lotus petals) contain Buddhist elements, and the glass artifacts exhibit characteristics of Islamic culture.  They reveal rich information about Tang Dynasty court life, religious beliefs, and foreign trade. However, due to their age and the cultural discontinuity caused by subsequent wars, further in-depth research is still needed.  Below, we will examine just two artifacts to illustrate the significant differences between Tang Dynasty tea-drinking practices and those of later periods.

This gilded tea grinder was unearthed in 1987 from the underground palace of the Tang Dynasty Famen Temple Pagoda in Fufeng, Shaanxi Province. It is currently housed in the Famen Temple Museum. This artifact demonstrates that as early as the Tang Dynasty, the Chinese custom of drinking tea involved grinding the tea leaves first, then mixing the tea powder with water to form a paste before consumption. This provides evidence supporting the term "eating tea" found in ancient texts.

Tang Dynasty Gold and Silver Wire Woven Tea Cage - During the Tang Dynasty, tea was consumed in the form of compressed tea cakes. Before consumption, the tea cakes needed to be placed in a tea roasting cage, which was designed to absorb heat and easily release moisture, in order to dry the tea. While most tea roasting cages were made of woven bamboo, the one unearthed at Famen Temple is a Tang Dynasty imperial tea utensil, woven with gold and silver threads to reflect its noble status.

Do you know about China's "seven major dark teas"?

China's "Seven Major Dark Teas" typically refer to the seven main producing regions or representative varieties of Chinese dark tea, which mainly include: Hunan dark tea (Anhua dark tea), Hubei Qingzhuan tea, Sichuan Tibetan tea (Bian tea), Yunnan dark tea (Pu-erh ripe tea), Guangxi Liubao tea, Shaanxi Fuzhuan tea, and Anhui Guyi dark tea. Each of these dark teas has its own unique characteristics and a long history.

Seven Major Types of Dark Tea and Their Characteristics

Hunan Dark Tea (Anhua Dark Tea): Produced in Anhua, Hunan, it is considered the originator of dark tea, known for its "pine smoke aroma" and mellow taste.  It includes series such as Fuzhuan, Qianliang, Heizhuan, and Sanjian.

Hubei Qingzhuan Tea: Made from aged green tea leaves, pressed into brick shapes, also known as "Dongzhuan" or "Chuanzi Tea." It has an orange-red liquor, a strong aroma, and a mellow taste.

Sichuan Tibetan Tea (Bian Tea): Primarily from Ya'an, it is a classic dark tea, historically an important tea for Tibet, with a mellow and smooth taste.

Yunnan Dark Tea (Pu-erh Ripe Tea): Made from Yunnan large-leaf varieties, fermented through a specific process, it has a unique aged aroma and a lingering sweet aftertaste.

Guangxi Liubao Tea: Produced in Liubao, Wuzhou, known for its "red, strong, aged, and mellow" characteristics, and a unique betel nut flavor.

Shaanxi Fuzhuan Tea: Produced in Jingyang, Shaanxi, it features a unique "flowering" process during production and is known as the "tea of ​​life for ethnic minorities in Northwest China."

Anhui Guyi Dark Tea (An Tea): A dark tea produced in Anhui, the finished product is dark black, with a strong, slightly reddish liquor, and an aromatic yet slightly astringent taste.

These dark teas are all post-fermented teas, suitable for long-term storage, and possess unique health benefits, such as lowering blood lipids and regulating the digestive system.

A Chronicle Of Ripe Pu'er Tea Featuring Prominent Figures, Historical events, And Renowned Tea Factories(3)

Xiaguan Tea Factory: 7663 (1975), Tuocha Sold to France(1976)

Founded in 1941, Kangzang Tea Factory-the predecessor of Xiaguan Tea Factory

In 1952, all companies within the China Tea Company system uniformly used the "Zhongcha" brand. Xiaguan Tea Factory began producing Seven Sons Cake Tea. Entering the 1960s, due to raw material allocation plans and the division of labor in processing products, Xiaguan Tea Factory focused on Tuocha and compressed tea as its main products, producing only a small amount of round tea, with the majority planned for Menghai Tea Factory.

Early Xiaguan Tuocha 

In 1953, through experimentation, the tea factory changed the method of kneading tea cakes from being rolled into round shapes in cloth bags and then pressed with 18-kilogram lead cakes to directly steaming and pressing them in aluminum steamers.

Trademarks of Xiaguan Tuo from different periods.

In 1955, with the approval of the provincial company, the compressed tea specification changed from a heart shape to a brick shape. Ten tons were initially produced for trial sales in Lijiang and other places to solicit consumer feedback. In the same year, the provincial company notified the tea factory to conduct artificial post-fermentation experiments on exported compressed tea. The shape of Xiaguan Tea Factory's Seven Sons Cake Tea changed from a concave bottom to a flat bottom.

In 1958, a successful experiment with high-temperature, rapid artificial post-fermentation shortened the fermentation cycle and reduced costs.

In 1973, the Kunming Tea Factory adopted the principle of pile fermentation for compressed tea from the Xiaguan Tea Factory, further accelerating the process with high-temperature, high-humidity artificial post-fermentation to produce the Yunnan Pu'er tea (ripe tea) we know today.

In 1975, trial production of Pu'er Tuocha (ripe tea) was conducted. In 1976, bulk exports of Tuocha (7663) were made specifically for Hong Kong's Tian Sheng Hang, which then exclusively sold it in the French market.

In 1976, the provincial company held a province-wide Pu'er tea production conference, requiring the Kunming, Menghai, and Xiaguan factories to increase production of Pu'er tea (pile fermented ripe tea) and deciding on tea product markings. Xiaguan Tea Factory's markings began with 76 and ended with 3.

In 1978, the provincial company assigned the production plan for Xiaguan Tea Factory's small-volume round tea (Seven Sons Cake Tea) to the Menghai Tea Factory for processing.

Kunming Tea Factory: 7581 Pu-erh Ripe Brick (75 Years)

In 1973, personnel from four tea factories visited Guangdong Province to study pile fermentation technology. The Xiaguan Tea Factory completed the initial ripening process, while the Kunming Tea Factory further humidified and heated the process to complete the established wet pile fermentation technique, which is what is now known as ripe Pu-erh tea. Historical records indicate that the initial experimental tea was known in the market as "Jujube-scented Thick Brick," while the mass-produced tea was "73 Thick Brick."

73 Thick Brick

The 7581 Kunming Ripe Brick was the mainstream ripe brick tea on the market before 1994, with its peak production period being from 1988 to 1994.

During this period, the Kunming Tea Factory primarily exported tea under the brands Jixing and Jinji. Jixing Golden Melon Tribute Tea and Jinji Tuocha were well-known teas of this period, although production was limited.

The most important process in processing ripe Pu-erh tea: Piling (渥堆)

Those unfamiliar with tea might not even know the pronunciation of "piling," but seasoned tea drinkers know it's the most crucial part of the ripe Pu-erh tea processing. It directly affects the taste of the finished tea and carries a certain risk; a mistake can ruin the tea.

The piling process seems simple—after the fresh leaves are withered and dried to form raw tea, they are piled into a small mound, sprinkled with water, covered with a cloth, and allowed to ferment. Experienced tea masters will periodically turn the tea leaves and sprinkle water to control the temperature of the pile and the fermentation environment.

Piling

Generally, piling lasts about a month. However, in recent years, some manufacturers have modified the process to reduce the musty smell and improve the flavor, using low temperatures, frequent small amounts of water, and longer fermentation times, sometimes reaching up to three months.

Piling

Pu-erh tea that has undergone piling has a clear, reddish-brown color and a mellow, sweet taste. Unlike raw Pu-erh tea, ripe Pu-erh is very mild, with very little stimulation to the body. Long-term consumption can even have a stomach-nourishing and bowel-regulating effect. However, if the processing techniques are not sophisticated and the tea masters lack experience, the fermentation process itself carries risks. The most common problem is burning the pile, where excessively high temperatures cause the tea leaves at the center of the pile to turn black and carbonize, rendering them undrinkable.

Besides this, an immature fermentation process can also have negative effects on the tea. If the tea leaves are extremely dry and scorched like firewood, it's likely that the center was burned during fermentation; if the leaves are too soft and crumble easily, it's probably due to poor moisture control during fermentation, resulting in too much moisture. Furthermore, the burnt or musty taste found in some ripe Pu-erh teas is also highly likely to be caused by negative effects during fermentation. Therefore, tea factories typically employ experienced masters to oversee the fermentation process.

The End

A Chronicle Of Ripe Pu'er Tea Featuring Prominent Figures, Historical events, And Renowned Tea Factories(2)

Guangzhou: The Transformation of Red-Liquor Raw Pu-erh Tea in the Hands of China Tea Company

In 1959, the Guangdong Tea Import and Export Company (China Tea Company) began experimental research on accelerating the post-fermentation of Pu-erh tea, developing its own new process for Pu-erh tea fermentation. The Guangzhou branch of China Tea Company blended Yunnan raw tea leaves with local Guangdong tea leaves to produce Guangdong Pu-erh tea.

According to later research, this Guangdong Pu-erh tea was quite different from the ripe Pu-erh tea produced today (it could only be considered a red-liquor Pu-erh tea favored by local people).

While reviewing the materials, I also discovered an interesting fact: also in 1959, a tea expert named Zeng Jian from Hong Kong consulted Lu Zhuxun for tea-making secrets. Later, Zeng Jian's brother, Zeng Qi, went to Guangzhou and joined the Guangdong branch of China Tea Company, taking on the role of tea fermentation expert.

The exact time when Zeng Jian's brother took up his position in Guangzhou cannot be verified, but the timing is close, leading us to speculate that his arrival may have been somewhat related to the development of the new ripe Pu-erh tea process in Guangzhou.

Guangdong Pu'erh

Boxes of Guangdong Pu-erh Tea

Yunnan: The Transformation of Red-Liquor Raw Pu-erh Tea to Ripe Pu-erh Tea at Kunming, Menghai, and Xiaguan Tea Factories

In early 1973, the Yunnan Provincial Tea Company learned at the Canton Fair that Hong Kong customers needed fermented red-liquor Pu-erh tea, and that this type of tea was produced in Guangdong.  They decided to learn the process. They sent a seven-person team, including An Zengrong, deputy director of the Kunming Tea Factory, Wu Qiying, head of the inspection department, and worker Li Guiying, along with two representatives each from the Menghai and Xiaguan tea factories, to the Guangzhou Tea Factory to learn the Pu-erh tea fermentation process.

The Old Photos Of Kunming Tea Factory

After the team returned to Kunming, the company established a technical research group composed of key personnel from production, inspection, and marketing. The Kunming Tea Factory initially tried producing the tea using its own process. The Guangzhou Tea Factory initially used cold water fermentation, but finding it unsatisfactory, switched to warm water fermentation and standardized the process. The Kunming Tea Factory tried warm water fermentation according to the Guangzhou process but was unsuccessful. The Kunming Tea Factory and the research group held numerous meetings to discuss and analyze the process.

The meetings were held repeatedly, moving from the office to the factory floor. After analysis, everyone agreed that Guangzhou's climate and environment differed significantly from Kunming's, and that the processing methods should be adjusted.  Most believed that using cold water fermentation in Kunming seemed more reasonable. The Guangzhou Tea Factory also suggested, "Based on Kunming's climate characteristics, it might be worthwhile to try using cold water."

In 1974, after adjusting the process, the Kunming Tea Factory finally achieved success with its fermentation process, producing 10.2 tons of Pu-erh tea for export to Hong Kong that year (including over 1 ton produced by Chen Peiren's trial). Subsequently, Menghai developed its own process, while Xiaguan combined its hot fermentation process for compressed tea to create its unique products. These products had completely different flavors from Guangdong Pu-erh tea.

With the successive production of Pu-erh tea by the Menghai and Xiaguan tea factories, the scale of Pu-erh tea production in Yunnan gradually expanded. In the 1970s and 1980s, Pu-erh tea from the Yunnan Tea Import and Export Company dominated the Hong Kong market and entered the Japanese and Western European markets, greatly encouraging the tea-producing regions of Yunnan. Some tea factories in Dehong, Baoshan, and Simao prefectures were eager to start Pu-erh tea production for export. To promote the development of these tea-producing regions, the company sent personnel to introduce and share the experience of the Kunming Tea Factory with these factories on multiple occasions.

In 1975, Menghai's Pu-erh tea production process was basically finalized, resulting in what we know today as modern ripe Pu-erh tea. Later, Menghai ripe tea cakes with the mark numbers 7452 and 7572, Xiaguan Pu-erh ripe tea tuo with the mark number 7663 for export to France, and Kunming Pu-erh ripe tea bricks with the mark number 7581 began to be exported in large quantities, becoming flagship products of the Yunnan Tea Company. 

The Old Photos Of Menghai Tea Factory

Reflection: Reasons for the successful transformation of ripe Pu-erh tea in Yunnan

1. Possessing the foundation of compressed tea fermentation technology

In 1939, Mr. Fan Hejun visited Fohai (now Menghai) for research. He wrote an article titled "Fohai Tea Industry," which included a description of the fermentation of compressed tea raw materials: "C. For each batch of tea, 150 catties each of high-grade and medium-grade tea leaves are required.  They must be moistened to ferment, develop aroma, and become soft for easy kneading."

In 1957, Mr. Tang Qingyang, the head of Xishuangbanna Tea Factory (Menghai Tea Factory), summarized, "Since the founding of the People's Republic of China, Xishuangbanna Tea Factory has broken with the past practice of not processing tea during the rainy season, and has begun producing compressed (export) round tea in the third quarter rainy season. Through artificial technical management of temperature and humidity, it not only controls mold growth but also maintains the mellow and rich flavor characteristics of post-fermented round tea, meeting the taste requirements of consumers and accelerating product delivery."

In 1958, Xiaguan Tea Factory successfully experimented with high-temperature steam rapid fermentation technology for compressed tea. The entire process involved turning the tea twice, taking a maximum of 15 days, greatly shortening the fermentation time of compressed tea. However, the Pu-erh tea fermented using this method also had its drawbacks, namely a strange taste. However, this steam post-fermentation laid the foundation for Xiaguan Tea Factory's development of its own pile fermentation technology in 1975.

2. Possessing early experience in Pu-erh tea fermentation

Before 1953, Chen Peiren was the owner of Huasheng Tea Shop in Kunming. In the 1940s, he saw that the Pu-erh tea produced by Ruifeng Tea Shop, run by Ma Ziyu, had a bright red color and a unique taste, and many Cantonese people in Kunming bought it. He then experimented with making fermented Pu-erh tea himself. This shows that fermented Pu-erh tea was sold in Kunming at that time, but the consumer group was relatively small and not widely known.

Pu-erh tea originates from Yunnan, but coastal areas such as Guangdong and Hong Kong "promoted" it, making it known to the world. However, Yunnan tea producers integrated the strengths of various methods, allowing Pu-erh tea to truly possess mature fermentation technology, and Pu-erh tea ultimately returned to its roots. Thus, Pu-erh tea completed its evolution from traditional red-liquor raw tea to red-liquor raw tea in Macau, Hong Kong, Guangdong, and Thailand, and finally to modern ripe Pu-erh tea in Yunnan.  The production process also evolved from the era of tribute tea for the imperial court to a readily available consumer product for everyone.

Classic Showcase: Tea Factories and Their Products Worth Mentioning

Menghai Tea Factory: 7452 and 7572 began mass production.

The Menghai Tea Factory, known for its legendary tea cakes 7572 and 7452, produced only 6 piculs of Pu-erh tea (ripe tea) in 1974, and then gradually increased production year by year.

In 1976, document No. 84/45 from Yunwai Tea Industry stipulated seven tea numbers for Menghai Tea Factory's Pu-erh tea: Yunnan Seven-Son Tea Cake 7572, 7682, Yunnan Pu-erh Tea 74092, 74102, Yunnan Green Tea 74342, 74562, and 74782.

In 1978, the processing volume of Pu-erh tea (ripe tea) ranked first among all refined teas. In that year, Menghai County processed a total of 27,797 piculs of refined tea, including 3,675 piculs of green tea, 7,403 piculs of black tea, 6,936 piculs of compressed tea (raw Pu-erh tea), and 9,783 piculs of special tea (ripe Pu-erh tea).

Seven-son Pu-erh Tea Cakes

To Be Continued

A Chronicle Of Ripe Pu'er Tea Featuring Prominent Figures, Historical events, And Renowned Tea Factories(1)

Pu-erh ripe tea has only existed for about 40 years since its inception. I've always wanted to write an article about its origins, but unfortunately, I lack sufficient research materials. Fortunately, I recently came across the article "Lu Zhuxun: The 'Godfather of Ripe Tea' Who Never Produced a Single Cake," which mentioned Mr. Yang Kai's research on the history of pu'er ripe tea, and I was deeply inspired. After organizing Mr. Yang Kai's articles and books on the historical research of pu'er ripe tea, I clearly saw the trajectory of ripe Pu-erh from its inception to the present day, the important turning points, and the factories, people, and events that have left their mark on the chronology of Pu-erh ripe tea: Lu Zhuxun, a representative of Pu-erh ripe tea; the Menghai Tea Factory that produced the legendary 7452 and 7572; how Macau, Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Yunnan, and other places promoted the transformation from raw Pu-erh to ripe pu'er tea… I will use three blog posts to clearly explain the origins of Pu-erh ripe tea, its development history, important turning points, and processing techniques—in other words, this is a chronology of Pu-erh ripe tea, vibrant with figures, historical events, and famous tea factories.

Lu Zhuxun

The Budding Stage: The Precursor of Ripe Pu-erh Tea – Red-Soup Raw Pu-erh

The concept of ripe Pu-erh tea was actually only truly established around 1975. Before that, Pu-erh tea, by today's standards, was all raw Pu-erh tea. Records of Yunnan compressed tea's materials, production, and packaging in works completed before the founding of the People's Republic of China all similarly mention that the raw Pu-erh tea of ​​that time had a "red soup color." This red-soup Pu-erh was the precursor to ripe Pu-erh tea.

Red-soup Pu-erh

The reasons for the red-soup Pu-erh can be summarized in three points:

1. Due to the Processing Technology

Referring to descriptions of Pu-erh tea production processes at that time, it can be found that the production process of Pu-erh tea then was the same as that of raw Pu-erh tea today. Sun-drying was used during drying, and coupled with the relatively rudimentary production conditions at the time, the finished tea inevitably underwent "micro-fermentation," resulting in a "pale red" soup color. Later, the "tea-building" process, where the tea was allowed to dry naturally after being moistened with water, further intensified the "fermentation" of the tea leaves.

Local people and tea farmers pick tea leaves, stir-fry them in a wok to wilt, then repeatedly knead them on bamboo mats before sun-drying or air-drying them—this is the initial processing of tea. It is either sold in small quantities at the market or packed into bamboo baskets according to quality.

After placing the tea leaves in the baskets, a little moisture is sprinkled on them, and the baskets are surrounded by large bamboo shoots (commonly known as bamboo shoot leaves). Then, while adding tea, it is pressed tightly with fists or sticks, a process called "building the tea." The tea is then stored separately to dry naturally.

2. Poor Transportation Conditions

The journey from Yunnan to Guangzhou and Hong Kong is long. Tea can only be transported by human porters and pack animals, and it often takes a year to reach Hong Kong. During this long transport period, the tea is exposed to wind and rain, resulting in a darker tea liquor color by the time it arrives.

3. Aging Required Before Sale

After arriving in Hong Kong, Pu'er tea is not consumed immediately. To achieve a smoother and more pleasant taste, it is often aged for a period of time before being sold.

This custom can also be traced in an interview with Hong Kong tea connoisseur Lu Zhuxun, who said, "When my great-grandfather was in the Pu'er tea business, the freshly made Pu'er tea had a rather dark color, but it was only sold after being aged for six or seven years until the flavor became purer."

Thus, we can see that Pu'er tea consumed in Guangzhou and Hong Kong before the founding of the People's Republic of China, due to processing techniques, production and transportation conditions, and the effects of later storage, exhibited slight fermentation. However, the "red liquor" of Pu'er tea was not intentionally caused, but rather had many objective reasons.

Emergence Period: Habits Lead to Demand—The Beginning of Pu'er Tea Reform 

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, private tea shops and tea factories gradually began to be jointly owned by the public and private sectors, and tea began to be centrally purchased and sold. In 1949, China Tea was established, and tea-making techniques and production scale developed rapidly. Transportation conditions also improved significantly, leading to changes in the quality of Pu'er tea supplied to Hong Kong.

In 1950, Yuan Shoushan, who ran the Tongxinghao Tea Shop in Yunnan, came to Macau. Sitting on a wooden chair in the Yingji Tea Shop, he remarked, "Hong Kong customers, accustomed to the red-broth Pu'er tea (raw tea), simply cannot stomach the under-fermented flavor of the new tea. This has led to a shortage of aged tea cakes on the market." This information corroborates the situation at the time. It was also discovered that the Hong Kong market, accustomed to "traditional tastes," had a gap in demand for highly aged Pu'er tea. To allow newly supplied Pu'er tea to naturally adapt to the tastes preferred by Hong Kong people, time was the only option. To quickly meet market demand, various regions embarked on a path of reforming Pu'er tea processing techniques.

Development Period: A Hundred Schools of Thought Contend, Reforms in Hong Kong, Guangzhou, and Kunming

Hong Kong: Lu Zhuxun's Red-Broth Raw Pu'er and His Fuhuahao Tea Shop

Fuhuahao Tea Shop in Hong Kong

Ying Kee Tea Shop in Macau

Lu Zhuxun, a prominent figure in Hong Kong's tea industry and a representative of the development of ripe Pu'er tea in Hong Kong, was born in Guangdong in 1927 and his life was inextricably linked to tea. At the age of 11, he became an apprentice at the renowned Ying Kee Tea Shop in Macau.

After the quality of the Pu-erh tea supplied to Hong Kong changed, Lu Zhuxun keenly sensed a business opportunity. Drawing on his family's experience in the Pu-erh tea business and his previous experience making black tea, Lu began developing a Pu-erh tea (red-broth raw Pu-erh tea) that would be popular in the Hong Kong market. A month later, his research was successful.

In the late 19th century, Macau's leading position in the tea entrepot trade was gradually replaced by Hong Kong. In 1954, Master Lu left Macau with his skills and settled in Hong Kong, establishing his own brand, "Fuhua Hao Songpinmai".

Fuhua Membership Card

To Be Continued

Regarding The Packaging Cover Art For Our Two Newly Launched Pu'er Tea Cakes

Our newly launched two Pu'er tea cakes feature the cover design of "Auspicious Cranes," a painting by Emperor Huizong of the Northern Song Dynasty, in commemoration of this controversial and debated emperor in Chinese history. The painting depicts a flock of cranes flying above Xuande Gate in Bianjing (Kaifeng), the capital of Northern Song Dynasty at the time, a symbol of auspiciousness. It is one of Emperor Huizong's representative works, excelling in poetry, calligraphy, and painting, and is currently housed in the Liaoning Provincial Museum.

Emperor Huizong (Zhao Ji) (1082-1135) was the eighth emperor of the Northern Song Dynasty, reigning for 25 years (1100-1125). He was a "misplaced" emperor, highly accomplished in art but a major failure in political governance. Later generations often commented that he was "capable in everything except being a ruler," considering him a highly talented scholar but ultimately responsible for the downfall of the nation.

Emperor Huizong made significant contributions to Chinese tea culture. He was not only a tea enthusiast but also its founder and leader.

He authored *Da Guan Cha Lun* (Treatise on Tea of ​​the Da Guan Era), a tea treatise that meticulously records the entire process of tea cultivation, harvesting, processing, utensils, and tea-making techniques during the Northern Song Dynasty. This marked the pinnacle of Song Dynasty tea theory, leaving behind highly authoritative standards for craftsmanship. He also pioneered the "Seven-Infusion Method," detailing seven stages of water pouring in *Da Guan Cha Lun*. Each infusion varies in water volume, pressure, and rhythm, ultimately achieving a beautiful visual effect of "sparse stars and a bright moon, brilliantly emerging," elevating tea-making to an art form. Emperor Huizong of Song admired Jian ware teacups, believing that "the color of the cup is most precious in its bluish-black," and that the black-glazed Jian ware teacups from the Jian kilns of Fujian best complemented the beauty of white tea foam. Under his advocacy, Jian ware became the official standard vessel for tea-making in the Song Dynasty. As emperor, he frequently personally prepared tea for his officials at court banquets. This top-down promotion expanded tea-making from a courtly ritual into an elegant pursuit shared by literati, officials, and even commoners.

Below is a high-resolution digital version of this painting of auspicious cranes. Please enjoy!

The History And Evolution Of Liubao Tea And Its Production Techniques(2）

At that time, the fermentation process reform experiment was led by the Guangdong Provincial Tea Import and Export Company, while the research on the pile fermentation of Liubao tea fell to the Wuzhou branch of the China Tea Guangxi Provincial Branch (now Wuzhou China Tea).

A book published in 1959 introducing the cold-water pile fermentation process.

At that time, the technical personnel in Wuzhou explored and recorded the process and results of dividing the tea leaves into different grades and adding different proportions of water.  The advantages and disadvantages of this process were also listed. The document explicitly states, "Currently, we have implemented this method in our large-scale production, and the finished products supplied to the Guangdong Tea Export Company have received positive feedback." This confirms that the cold-water pile fermentation process for Liubao tea by the Wuzhou branch of the China Tea Guangxi Provincial Branch (now Wuzhou China Tea) had been applied to mass production at least as early as 1958.

In the fermentation workshop of Wuzhou Zhongcha, the cold water pile fermentation tanks that had been in use for decades have now been replaced with clean and hygienic stainless steel tanks.

Most importantly, the improved quality and taste of Liubao tea were recognized by merchants. The special export mission of the Wuzhou Tea Import and Export Company (now Wuzhou China Tea) at that time meant that, until the abolition of the foreign trade tea export license management in 2005, the Liubao tea flavor recognized in Southeast Asia and Hong Kong and Macau was based on Liubao tea produced using the cold-water pile fermentation method.

It is also worth mentioning that in early 1973, the Yunnan Provincial Tea Import and Export Company learned at the Canton Fair that Hong Kong customers needed fermented red-liquor Pu'er tea, and since this type of tea was produced in Guangdong, they decided to learn the process.  Around 1975, Yunnan's fermentation process underwent a significant innovation, developing the cold-water pile fermentation process, which led to the creation of ripe Pu'er tea.

It can be said that, whether for Liubao tea or Pu'er tea, the cold-water pile fermentation process was researched and invented under the leadership and organization of the China Tea Company at that time. They were the leaders and pioneers of modern ripe tea processing technology.

Looking back, how important is the pile fermentation process to Liubao tea and ripe Pu'er tea? Numerous papers now show that its principle is to promote the transformation of internal substances through hydrothermal action, enzymatic action, and microbial action, reducing bitterness and astringency, deepening the color of the tea liquor, making the taste mellower, and changing the color of the tea leaves to reddish-brown or dark brown, thus optimizing the quality of the tea. 

The Last Secret of Liubao Tea – Cellar Aging

Liubao tea is renowned for its "red, rich, aged, and mellow" characteristics. When brewed, the tea liquor is bright red, the taste is mellow and refreshing, and the aroma is pure. A ​​crucial process in its production is cellar aging. According to records, in ancient times, people in Liubao Township (now Liubao Town) stored tea leaves in mud-brick houses with relatively constant temperatures. Through practice, they discovered that the storage of Liubao tea played a very important role in improving its quality. This was the early form of the cellar aging process for Liubao tea. Furthermore, the book "Tea Manufacturing," published by the Agricultural Publishing House in 1961, explicitly states that Liubao tea "is best when aged, and the older, the better." In short, under certain storage conditions, the post-fermentation of Liubao tea is accelerated due to the participation of microorganisms, making the tea redder, richer, and mellower.

In the current geographical indication standards for Liubao tea, the aging process is described as follows: The tea leaves are placed in a clean, cool, well-ventilated environment free of peculiar odors. After the tea temperature drops to room temperature and the moisture content drops below 18%, it is moved to a clean environment with a relative humidity of 75% to 90%, a temperature of 23℃ to 28℃, and no peculiar odors, or to a cave with similar conditions for aging. Then, it is moved to a clean, cool, dry warehouse free of peculiar odors for further aging. The aging time is no less than 180 days. Therefore, the interpretation of the geographical indication can be that the aging process requires specific storage environments, storage methods, and climatic conditions, but the location is not unique. It can be a tea cellar, a brick and wood warehouse, or a purely dry warehouse, etc. However, different cellar aging environments create different flavors. To obtain the unique and high-quality flavor of Liubao tea, there has always been a practice of "multiple warehouses, multiple storages" and repeated transfers for aging.

The brick and wood structure of Wuzhou Zhongcha's natural dry storage has been in use since the 1960s, with ventilation and moisture protection (glass tiles are used for light transmission).

Going back to the 1950s and 1960s, during the period when modern Liubao tea processing techniques were taking shape, the Wuzhou branch of the China Tea Guangxi Provincial Company (now Wuzhou Zhongcha) further applied the cellar aging process in practice. Technicians discovered that the air-raid shelters left over from the war were excellent places for cellar aging.

In fact, many tea processing techniques originate from accidental discoveries. For example, it is said that the semi-fermentation process of Oolong tea originated from a unique taste obtained through a production error. Therefore, whether a new process can withstand the test of time and taste is crucial.

As is well known, cellar aging is particularly common in the fermentation of alcoholic beverages. Its function is to accelerate the esterification reaction, thereby speeding up the maturation of the alcohol. Moreover, frequently used cellars can form a relatively stable microbial community, which is extremely important for the quality of fermentation. Liu Bao tea that has undergone cellar aging has improved in terms of its bitter and astringent taste, possessing a more mellow flavor.

Exterior view of the natural dry storage structure of Wuzhou Zhongcha brick and wood

However, controlling the quality of tea during the aging process is not something that can be explained solely by textbook knowledge. According to Manager Xie of the Wuzhou China Tea Product Development Department, in addition to data control, the aging process requires experienced masters to conduct regular sensory evaluations.  Based on the style of different products, they decide whether to move the tea to a different storage location and control the duration of aging.

Furthermore, Manager Xie also said that the "no less than 180 days" mentioned in the geographical indication is actually a very basic standard. Some Liubao teas that have been aged well for seven or ten years will offer a special aroma and taste, which is the unique charm brought about by the aging and transformation of Liubao tea.

The End